Patches and Borders for Suits: Necklines, Daman Borders and Sleeve Pattis

A plain kameez with an embroidered neckline, a border on the hem and patterned sleeves looks like a formal suit. It costs far less than one, and it is how many women refresh a suit they already own.

This guide covers the main embroidered pieces, where each one goes, what to look for when you buy, and how your tailor attaches them.

The pieces and where they go

Neckline (gala patch)

An embroidered neckline sits around the neck of the kameez, on the front and sometimes the back. It is the first thing people notice, so it does the most for a plain shirt. Choose one that matches the neck shape you want: round, V or boat.

Daman border

A daman border runs along the hem of the shirt. A wide border makes a long shirt look heavier and more formal. A narrow one gives everyday wear a finished edge.

Sleeve pattis

Sleeve pattis are narrow borders for the cuffs or the length of the sleeve. They usually come in pairs and often match a neckline or daman border from the same set.

Front panels

A front panel covers the front of the shirt with embroidery. With a panel, a plain back and plain sleeves are enough for a formal look.

Laces and dupatta borders

Laces and narrow borders edge a plain dupatta or a trouser hem. A border on a plain chiffon dupatta can tie a whole outfit together.

How to choose

• Match the work to the fabric: heavy embroidery on organza, net or velvet for formal wear, lighter work on lawn or cotton for daily wear
• Match the colour to the shirt, or pick a contrast that repeats in the dupatta
• Measure the hem and sleeves you are making, and buy borders a little longer
• Buy matching pieces together: leftover designs rarely come back once they sell out

How your tailor attaches them

Most patches are stitched on by hand or with a straight machine stitch around the edge. Ask your tailor to place the neckline before cutting the neck, so the opening follows the embroidery.

Borders go on once the hem is finished. To press embroidered work, iron it from the back with a cloth in between, so the work keeps its shape.

Giving an old suit a second life

A suit you no longer wear can come back with a new neckline and border. Unpick the old trim, press the fabric, and have a new patch stitched on. A small piece of embroidered fabric can also become a new front for a plain shirt.

Frequently asked questions